Inside the Mind of a Freelance Writer: The History of Irish Cuisine

Tammy Curry Freelance writer

The History of Irish Cuisine

When we think of Irish Cuisine today we think of Saint Patrick’s Day, green beer and corned beef and cabbage. Green beer is a very modern thing and not actually part of Ireland’s traditions at all. Corned beef and cabbage was a rich man’s delight. However, your average person did not eat it, not even on Saint Patrick’s Day. The rich humor and colorful stories that have been told and re-told for hundreds of generations are a prime example of the island’s people themselves. There is a strong movement to regain many of the old traditions and ways of life. The Gaels are a simple people, tied strongly to the land and their beliefs. Many of the traditions being brought back to life around the world pre-date Christianity. Much of the Gaelic culture is found in their stories, ballads and poems.

Little is recorded in the history books about the early Celtic civilizations. It is believed that they were predominately hunters and gatherers. It was approximately 5000 years ago that the Irish began to cultivate and domesticate animals. There were great social changes occurring at this time as well. They began to clear forests and collect edible plants. Rural controlled grazing of animals also brought about dramatic changes and stabilized family units. The increase in food production removed many of the constraints of population growth, such as disease and starvation.

Potatoes were not always a mainstay of the Irish diet. Meat, cheese, milk, grains and some vegetables were the main focus of the Irish. Coastal areas used a wide variety of shellfish as their main course. They added seaweed and herbs and vegetables to make a soup or stew that simmered for hours, many times it was served with bread. The inland communities cooked much the same way however, they used meat and game. There 8 types of grains known and the use varied from place to place. Oatmeal and porridge were commonly eaten.

The Gaels are known for their hospitality. It was dishonor and disgrace if you did not feed a stranger at your door. It was normal to feed someone first and then ask their business. And if there was something at all to celebrate a feast was held. The days of the great feasts where every one served according to their station in life was a way of life. However, as the Normans invaded and major socio-political changes took places this changed forever. The natives of the little island went from being land owners to tenants. There diets began to change as well.

The discovery of the New World brought about the introduction of the potato. The potato quickly became a staple food of the Irish. This brought about another change in their diet and a rise in population. It was quick and easy to grow and as cereal prices began to rise the potato stood ready to take its place.

During the 18th century, as the potato replaced cereal and sugar replaced honey and tea replaced ale, the new Irish cuisine began. This is the food that we are familiar with today. Because the farmers became so dependent on the potato as a cash crop and a main source of food when the potato famines began to strike it was devastating to them. Not only were they no longer growing a wide variety of vegetables or raising as much meat, they were suffering from a loss of their main food source.

There isn’t another country in the world that has been so changed by the introduction of one food. However, Irish Cuisine remains unchanged now since the introduction of the potato. These recipes date from the 1800’s. Hopefully one day more of the recipes that were used prior to the potato will be available.

The following recipes were submitted by James Byrne, a rather jolly fellow that I have unfortunately lost touch with. They have been left in tact as he submitted them; recipes, humor, and all that is Irish. James is a resident of Ireland.

I added 4 simple trad. recipes that haunted my family home throughout my internment there in.

The ingredients are simple and easily accessible here I would imagine more so in North America I hope ye find them useful and if not that they at least give you a giggle.

Coddle:

These are all evolved from hotpot cooking from the 1800's. When food was scarce anything you scavenged would be thrown into the pot that was always kept cooking over the hearth.

Ingredients:

1½ pints chicken stock
1 lbs bacon slices (we call them Rashers here)
1 lbs breakfast sausages (we just call them sausages because we don`t get any other kind here)
3 lb potatoes — peeled but unsliced
2 large onions — peeled and sliced
2 carrots — peeled and sliced
Pinch of Rosemary, thyme and parsley
and 1 LARGE pot.

Instructions:

Boil potatoes for 20 mins,
Add chicken stock
Peel and chop the carrots and onions
Separate the sausage links
Add them all to the LARGE pot along with the rashers.
Add the herbs and cook for an 1 hour over moderate heat; do not boil.

Serves 4 family members or whoever comes over to eat until its gone.

Irish Stew: Another hotpot dish. This was invented to make use of the tough mutton of an old ewe.

Ingredients:

1 ½ of mutton
2 pints lamb stock
3 lb potatoes — peeled but unsliced
2 large onions — peeled and sliced
2 carrots — peeled and sliced
2 tablespoons pearl barley
Pinch of Rosemary, thyme and parsley, black pepper and salt
and 1 LARGE pot!

Instructions

Wash the meat and trim off excess fat,
cut it into medium sized chunks then braise in the LARGE pot
Add the stock, Onions, potatoes and carrots to the pot making sure everything
is immersed in stock and simmer for 30 minutes;
Add the barley, herbs and salt
continue to simmer for another hour or until the potatoes are cooked.

Once again it serves 4 family members or whoever comes over to eat until its gone.

Crubeens: This is one of my mother’s old timey favorites. Crubeens are traditionally eaten with the fingers when you've come back from the pub after a feed of pints, (you'll know why when you read the recipe)

Ingredients:

12 pig's trotters (from the hind legs)
2 large onions — peeled and sliced
2 carrots — peeled and sliced
Pinch of Rosemary, thyme and parsley,
1 tsp of black pepper
1 LARGE pot...

Instructions

Put the pig's feet, onions, carrots, herbs and black pepper in a LARGE pot and cover with water.
Slowly bring to the boil and simmer for at least 3 hours.

Best served hot but beware! the fat from these usually ends up dripping from your chin onto your shoes.

Serves 4 or who ever's brave enough (or drunk enough) to eat them with you

Irish Soda bread:

This was my fathers favorite and second only to Guinness in the manly strength giving department.

Ingredients:

1lb coarse wholemeal flour
6 oz plain white flour
1/2 teaspoon bread soda
3/4 pt buttermilk
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 egg
Small drop of fresh milk
1 rounded teaspoon Bextartar (raising agent)
25g/loz. sugar.
1 LARGE pot...

Instructions

Heat the pot and grease with a little lard.
Mix all the dry ingredients in a basin and make a well in the centre.
Pour in nearly all the milk and egg;
Gather in the flour and mix to a loose dough, adding more milk if necessary
With floured hands, knead lightly on a floured board or table and flatten out.
Cut a cross on the top.
Place dough in pot and cover with a heated lid.
Place the hot coals on top to give all round heat.
Bake for about 45 minutes, until the bread is browned and sounds hollow when tapped on the base.
Cool on a wire rack, wrapped in a clean tea/dish towel to keep the crust soft.

The memory of my mother making this and the smell of fresh bread still feeds

my soul today.

Crubeens horrified me as a child but I grew to love the mess I made eating them. Ye might try them out on your own to see what reaction you get.